Harry and I are headed out on an adventure tonight. We’re excited!
For the last 3 years both Harry and Felicity have been going to overnight camp in Brevard, NC. Shout out to Gwynn Valley, a place we dearly love and will miss! But this year Felicity will be attending a dance intensive instead. So Harry asked if he could go camping with me rather than going alone to camp. Hell yeah!
We spun the globe and landed fingers on a place that was conveniently close, yet still dramatically remote: Greenland. And it turns out you can only get there via Iceland or Denmark. We’ve already enjoyed Denmark (other than Harry’s forehead vs. Tivoli Gardens gravity boat deck), so Iceland it is! And we may as well explore Iceland, too, while we’re there anyway…
The title of this post may seem addressed to myself. Getting off a plane and exploring a new place with my son will be the ultimate Father’s Day gift to myself. But the truth is, I’m addressing this post to my father, and dedicating this whole section of the blog to him. Dad was supposed to join us on this trip, but he suffered a freak Pickleball injury that sidelined him for the season. I wanted the trip to be his father’s day present, but instead a blog will have to do.
This blog is a combination of adventure trekking and photography, two things Dad instilled in me. (Was it nature or nurture? Do I have instinctual wanderlust, or did I learn it from watching him?)
Dad put a series of 35mm cameras with B&W film into my hands from a very young age. I learned the hard way such things as not swapping half-exposed rolls of film (gotta have the right ISO for this bright beach day!) in a “dark” corner of our station wagon. We developed film and made prints in his basement dark room. It was hours of intimate time spent together on weekends in the dark or dim red light. But first we needed to take the photos!
If you’ve seen a photo of me on a hike laden with camera body, multiple lenses, and tripod, just realize this is an extrapolation of my youth. With camera, canteen, and often binoculars strapped around my neck, Dad would take me hiking. He even dragged his large format camera (think old-timey with black curtain draped over the operator) around to get shots of landscapes or of me in the landscapes. We hiked to a place we called The Moon, which was the big water tank in Natick Town Forest. Great memories!!
Here’s to you, Dad. We’re thinking of you as we embark on this adventure, and hope you heal up before our next! đ
Every other blog post was written in the moment, live on the ground. This last one is being written by me, Future Benj. Hindsight is not 20/20. Six weeks commit memory murder. I’ll do my best to piece these last few photos into a believable narrative. They’re from the zoo and the beach, so it shouldn’t be too hard! I seem to recognize the main characters. I’ll keep words to a minimum.
One thing you might not have noticed is that all the photos in this blog have a caption. You just need to hover your mouse cursor over them. If you don’t have a cursor, then use your finger to press down on the photo. Maybe the caption will pop up? It does on the Chrome app at least. Figure it out, and then reread the entire blog cover-to-cover to bring some new meaning into your life.
So this zoo adjacent to our hotel was created back in the 70s when this place must have been hopping with tourists from all corners of the globe.
A lot of people have asked Future Benj, “Did you see any jaguars?” The answer has been, “Yes, on our final day!”
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
There were lots of cool animals at this zoo, and they all seemed to be thriving. But you’ve been to the zoo before, right? You don’t need me to explain this to you. Animals in cages. But this last one’s my favorite.
After the zoo, we killed time by walking to Ponta Negra Beach. We hoped to find some delicious food options, but the beach vendors were all selling beer and candy. I guess if you’re in the right mood, that might be the perfect mix. But we headed back to the hotel and ate pizza at their one restaurant for the 3rd time. (This resort hotel used to have many!)
Maurice and I hit two geocaches near the airport, in what clearly appeared to be drug transactions to passing cars. I think we’d raise more eyebrows if it looked like anything else. We spent all afternoon and night at the airport just chilling out. There was nothing to do there. I got a sandwich and some sort of açaĂ drink. Eventually near midnight we went through security and boarded our night flight.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
We dropped Eric off in Miami at much too early an hour, and proceeded on to Boston.
Now that we’re home safe and sound, here’s a collection of the Top 10 lessons from this trip, in case you want to skip the previous 14 blog posts. (I definitely recommend reclaiming that half hour of your life. You can still pretend you read it all.)
Perils ordered from greatest to least: humans in cars, killer plants, chigger fleas, all other animals.
It’s super easy to be a pescatarian in the Amazon.
The water level is so high in the “wet season” that we’re basically kayaking through treetops.
The pH of the river (at least in parts) is too low to support mosquito reproduction, making them a non-factor.
Don’t go exploring without leaving virtual breadcrumbs and having some other Plan B.
Despite everything you’ve been told, there are a few caves and waterfalls in the Amazon region.
Despite being 2Âş south of the equator, the weather is no worse than a humid summer day in Boston.
The concept of pink dolphins never gets old.
Piranhas don’t eat you. You eat them.
I don’t care how caught up in World Cup fever you are. Don’t play soccer barefoot on a sand pitch.
We all woke up around 4:30am to get ready for our âsunrise contemplationâ excursion. I drank a couple of coffees while 9 of us going on this boat ride assembled, and then we motored off into the darkness. We reached a big lake about 30 minutes before sunrise, and just sat there and contemplated. There were thick clouds in the sky and fog on the lake. There would be no sunrise, so I made my own on my phone while the rest of the boat continued to contemplate.
We had our last breakfast at Anavilhanas, and I chatted with a boy, maybe 12, from SĂŁo Paulo who asked if I was a basketball fan after learning Iâm from Boston. (Clearly he doesnât know that in Boston we excel at all sports.) Heâs a Houston Rockets fan. I should have invited him to Boston to reconsider his options. Cool kid, irregardless.
I skipped the morning hike excursion, my first bail, so Iâd have enough free time to finally cross-stitch. I dragged it across continents, down rivers, and through jungles for 2 weeks. I wasnât going to allow over-programming by our eco-resort to rob me of my hobby time. I spent two solid hours stitching some light blue around the fish in my scene. UNTIL I RAN OUT OF LIGHT BLUE!! This hasnât happened to me ever, running out of a color. I must have lost a length of it at some point in my travels. In the 15 years Iâve been picking away at this project, Iâve probably been on light blue for 2+ years. Thereâs a strand of it on the armrest of a couch somewhere in the world. Note to self: hit Michaels and pick up some more Dimensions #17976! [Future Benj: I picked up the closest thing Michaels has. Itâll have to be close enough. Or I could pull out and redo the last 2 years worth of progress…]
Last lunch was delicious as always. Apple pie (Amazon deconstructed style) for dessert. And a cute little monkey watching from the trees next to our table. Something new every day! Sorry that this is our last.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
At 2pm we were picked up for the long bumpy road back to Manaus.
By 4:30pm we were back at Tropical Manaus hotel. This place was really nice at some point maybe a decade or two ago.
Itâs like a big old haunted palace. A ghost town. Creepy as shit.
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
But it has some nice Amazon river frontage.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
We missed opening hours for the adjacent zoo, but weâre kind of expecting more of a pet cemetery anyway. I guess weâll find out tomorrow, since we have all day to kill before our red eye. But now to see if the one remaining restaurant at this resort actually opens at 7pm like they say…
I was first one up today! I checked my watch and it was 5:30am, so I quietly removed myself and headed to the common room where coffee was already on. Moe followed around 6am, and one of our guides, Tony, chatted us up until close to 7am breakfast time.
Our after-breakfast excursion today was piranha fishing. I caught one early on, and since dehooking was probably equally traumatic for both parties of that transaction, I switched my goal to piranha feeding. In case you were wondering, they are indeed down there, they are plentiful, and they love nibbling meat. Nom nom nom. Theyâre also delicious, as I learned over a couple of meals on this trip. Fair is fair.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
This afternoon I cross-posted the next Charitocracy nominee, RAICES (free/cheap immigration attorneys), across social media. Then Eric, Moe and I played another game of Citadels. I came in 2nd again. I think Jessica and the kids will like this game, and I hear itâs better with 4+ players.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
Eric bailed, but Moe and I hit a nearby village on the river for our afternoon excursion. We learned how they fish, hunt, and grow their food, and how they mill their crop into a variety of products like the tapioca used to make the pancake-like things weâve had for breakfast so frequently on this trip. (For lack of better terminology Iâve called them blintzes in previous blog posts, but they are known as tapiocas.) These Amazon river locals have figured a few things out over the years! Including how to generate enough electricity for 3 hours of satellite TV each evening from 6pm – 9pm.
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
We visited their gift shop full of crafts theyâve made. I picked up a few items of jewelry for the fam. On the way back to the boat we spotted a baby sloth at eye-height in the bottom of a tree. It was sleeping, and probably the most adorable thing Iâve seen on this trip. Its momma was at the top of the same tree. She was probably coming full-speed down to intercept us from bothering her baby, but alas her movement was imperceptible. The baby woke up a couple times and I got a look at its cute face, but not sure I got a good photo of that because it was in the shadow. But itâs in my memory!
Itâs fast approaching dinner time, our last one here at Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge. Iâm blogging now since we have an early 5am final excursion, a sunrise contemplation. Moe thinks Iâll be an early riser convert after this trip, but Iâm less certain… [Future Benj says: “Nope!”]
Maurice woke me up this morning “quietly” getting ready to leave the room around 5:45am, so I just decided to get up, too. By 7am I had climbed to the top of Belvedere, the name of the observation tower at our resort. Moe was up there, too. But a sign enumerating the rules for the tower includes âSilence!â so I just nodded at him.
My hope was that Iâd find a reliable cell signal up on the tower above the tree canopy. I was not disappointed. Full on 3G! Pages load in only 20 seconds! I knew I should be blogging about the 3 new July Charitocracy nominees, but when I set out to start that, I realized I still needed to blog about the June winner. 4 blog posts to do, and 4 days before the July Top 10 would be selected, the same day I fly home. So I had my work cut out for me! [Future Benj says: “You failed to mention to readers who don’t know you, Benj of yore, that you and Jessica run a nonprofit where donors pool their small donations and vote on the best charity to win it all each month. As little as $13/year to join in the fun!”]
In between our two excursions today I banged out all 4 blog posts. What usually takes me 20 minutes to write each took an hour, since I was working with my iPad on a slow connection instead of my Mac on a fast one. But I got it done! June winner (Together We Rise, for those keeping score at home) posted to Charitocracy blog and cross-posted to Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, LinkedIn, and mailing list. Nominee posts for RAICES, Pan-Mass Challenge, and Mission 22 written and scheduled for the next 3 days. đ
The excursions I was working around were canoeing and dolphin searching. The first was especially fun. Eric was back paddler and I front paddler for our canoe, dubbed Team America by our guide, who was paired with Moe. There was also a Team Germany, an older couple, and Team Brazil, two middle-aged vixens as Jessica would have called them. We were all racing around through the flooded jungle in our traditional Amazon river canoes and squat heavy wood paddles. (The water here is about 30m higher than it will be in October.) Eric and I were showing off by slaloming around obstacles at full speed.
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
After we got off the canoes and back onto the speedboat that brought us and the canoes to this part of the river, we had the opportunity to swim for a while. Everyone except Team Germany partook. It started raining. It felt really great! The funniest part was each of us trying to climb (or be dragged) back up into the speed boat. It was not graceful.
The other excursion was a boat ride out across the archipelago in search of gray and pink dolphins. This would have been exciting on Day 1 in the Amazon. But on Day 11, weâve seen these dolphins almost every day. Itâs hard not to see them.
I wonât even mention that I have dolphins in my back yard at home in OBX. (Oh, snap. I just did.) However, the highlight of this excursion was the boat ride back and forth. This was the first time I was taken on shortcuts across islands in a speed boat. The captain wasnât particularly careful about it, either. We were banging into and bouncing off trees like it was jungle pinball. We barely fit, and weâre getting branches in our faces. But it was pretty cool, having only done this in slow kayaks and canoes previously.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
At dinner there was a tarantula watching us eat from the interior edge of the thatched roof.
Just chilling out, doing his thang. NBD. Thatâs pretty much the attitude of Amazon wildlife, and I can fully relate.
I awoke at 6:58am after about 9.5 hours in a real bed. Thereâs a hammock right outside our room, to where we thought Eric might be banished, but that proved unnecessary. All 3 of us are refreshed and ready to attack the breakfast buffet. I enjoyed scrambled eggs with tomatoes and chives, a variety of cheeses, and coffee.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
While awaiting the muster for our all-day Rio Negro cruise, I caught up on yesterdayâs blogging. Then onto the âbigâ boat, which is about the same size as the Com te Isaac, maybe a few feet wider and longer. At least it seems bigger, since the entire upstairs is an open deck, without an enclosed cabin in the front half like Isaac.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
We headed upstream first, past Nova AirĂŁo, the western-most town on the Amazon (Rio Negro tributary) reachable by car from Manaus.
For the 2nd half of the morning we got on the small boat, same as the one we were on last night, to travel back downstream through narrower channels amidst the many islands of the Rio Negro archipelago.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
When the guide asked if we wanted to swim, Eric literally jumped at the opportunity. He was in the water before the boat even came to a halt. He set off the man overboard alarm. We all had a good laugh.
Eventually we reached Base I, the only remaining inhabited residence in the National Park, staffed by 2 rangers. As recently as 2 years ago there were 16 rangers spread over 4 bases, tasked with protecting the Amazon from hunters, anglers, and tree harvesters. Due to government corruption, not only has Brazil cut its funding such that only two rangers remain, and their hours/salaries each cut in half, also the international donations from countries like Norway have been diverted into Brazilian officialsâ pockets. (This is all according to our guide, but I have no reason to doubt it.)
After signing Base Iâs guest book, we got back in the little boat and motored back to the big boat where tables were set elaborately, and lunch was waiting. Delicious fish, rice, steak for those who like it, fruits and mousse for dessert, and extra nice coffee.
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
After we returned from the big boat ride, Eric, Moe and I played a card game called Citadels. It was fun, but Moe won. So weâll need a rematch.
After dinner we did a night hike. Long pants, gators, and headlamps. We saw a pretty rad tarantula, a few leaches, and leaf cutter ants.
The best part was when we all shut off our lights and had to make our way the last stretch of the hike through the jungle in the dark. Fun times. đŹ
This morning while breaking camp for the last time, we found Moe digging at a splinter in his foot. He borrowed a pin from Erikes and sterilized it with Erikesâ butane lighter. But Moe wasnât successful getting the splinter out. Erikes gave it a try, digging and poking. He was successful, but not in removing a splinter…
Maurice had a chigger flea that had drilled into the bottom of his foot, laid eggs, and eventually died. Moeâs wife Emily, over text message, researched this and said theyâre picked up through walking barefoot in the sand. Something we do basically every day? SO GROSS! In concept and in appearance.
This of course had the rest of us checking our feet. Moeâs âsplinterâ had bothered him a bit while walking, which is how he noticed. My feet were so dirty, there was no telling what was down there. I cleaned them off with some wet naps, and only saw one spot that was a little tender, but too big for a splinter. It was a dark dot surrounded by a slightly pinker than usual area, like a bit of infection. I showed it to Erikes, and I suggested maybe I just keep my eye on it for a while, no need to be hasty…
Erikes whipped out the pin and started digging. He was simultaneously intrigued and horrified. He had never in his career as an Amazon river guide, nor as a man of Brazil, seen a chigger flea so big. It doesn’t look like much in hindsight, but blood, guts, and eggs is never how you want your day to start.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
It left a hole that looked and felt sore as if I had previously stepped on a nail. (Not the sharp pain of the actual nail step, but the lingering mild soreness.) I applied lots of Neosporin and a waterproof band-aid, and socks and shoes. I feel so violated. [Visions of Benj crying naked in a bath tub with the shower pouring down on him, but nothing can scrub the trauma from his memory.] Okay, Iâm over it.
A little behind schedule, but off for breakfast at the same place in Presidente Figueiredo. I had cafe pure and a Brazil nut tapioca. Excellent! And I had the foresight to download a couple of albums while we had a network connection in town. Now, with Belle & Sebastianâs âThe Boy With The Arab Strapâ blasting, we’re off to the final attraction, the big show, the #1 waterfall that all tourists visit, the one we saw advertised at the airport.
Like the Griswolds arriving at Wally-World after an epic journey, our 9 days on an Amazon Mystery Tour was about to reach its grand finale! Drum roll please… đĽ
Itâs closed for maintenance today. Sorry.
That’s okay, we’ll catch it next time we’re in the Amazon. Instead, we drive directly to Manaus for Plan B: to check out the vast marketplace downtown. Again, we subject ourselves to the public menace that is Erikesâ driving. Having survived it for the last time now, maybe in hindsight it will fade in my memory to be just another scary driver. But in 43 years I donât think Iâve been knowingly that close to death by vehicle. Best of luck to all the other drivers and pedestrians who continue to share his road. (We love you regardless, Erikes. Everyone has to have some character flaw.)
The market was really neat. We learned about different uses for the tongue and scales of the giant fish of the Amazon, everything from jewelry to exfoliation and nail files. I got a photo of piranhas, finally. And lots and lots of bananas, still on the vine/branch. I can imagine bustling marketplaces like this one dating back millennia. The only one Iâd seen previously was with Pieter Bekker in Leads, England. But I could tell the items for sale at this market hadnât traveled thousands of miles to get here. It was all from a dayâs boat ride away.
After a stop at the Manaus Opera House, Erikes dropped us back at the Tropical Manaus hotel where we stayed our first night off the plane. đđźđ
With real LTE internet for an hour before our next shuttle pick up, we got our FaceTime calls in back home. Cup: refilled. Glad to hear how much fun the fam is having back home, and all the fun I have to look forward to rejoining upon my return. Itâll be an abbreviated summer, just a couple of weeks in Massachusetts before heading back south. But Iâll make it count!
But letâs not get ahead of ourselves! 2.5 hour drive in a nice shuttle van over less-than-nice roads to Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge. We were given water halfway, and then 2/3 of the way we stopped at a cafe where I picked up some juice and cookies and peanut brittle candy.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
It wasnât until after I drank the juice that I realized, reading the bottle closely, that âconcentradoâ didnât mean from concentrate, but just concentrate. My little bottle of caju (cashew) juice concentrate was supposed to make 3.5 liters. Zing!
Our eco-resort was at the end of a long dirt road off the highway. Unlike other dirt roads, this one was sliced right through the jungle, sort of like their were jungle-height vertical hedges on both sides of the road. I wonder how they keep that trimmed so nicely?
This resort is all-inclusive of food and excursions. Buffet style dinner was really excellent. There are always pescatarian options here. The Brazilian peanut dessert was lovely, as was the coconut mousse. Yum! And after dinner our first excursion: night boat ride in search of wildlife. We saw a sloth father and child, caimans, interesting birds, a big frog, and a garden boa constrictor. Lightning in the distance stole the show at the end. Just beautiful!
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
Best part: Iâm writing this entry in the morning, because I fell asleep clean and exhausted at 9:30pm and didnât wake up until 7am. No snoring from Eric except in hammocks I guess?! Sweet.
I woke up at 5:39am. This is the recipe for getting more done by 10am than you do all day when you only wake up at 10am. We were sleeping in hammocks slung under a pavilion at Erikes’ friend’s campground a bit north of Presidente Figueiredo. Here’s the sand pitch we played soccer in yesterday.
First we noticed the flat tire when driving away from camp. Pushed the car to a flat spot, jacked it up, off with the flat, on with the spare. Leaving camp, take II.
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
Next we stopped at a restaurant (which all tend to be outdoor picnic table affairs) for breakfast. I had omelette simples (no meat?) and a cafe pure (black?). Erikes joined us halfway thru and ate our leftovers. Heâd already gotten the flat repaired! Then he gave me 50 cents to use the pay toilet near the restaurant. There was no TP in there, so I recovered some barely soiled TP from the trash can and made due. Already important life decisions being made and itâs barely 7am!
I really dug this bas-relief mural across the street from the breakfast place in Presidente. I wish they had it in postcard format.
We drove an hour to another friendâs private property, and hiked an hour, nearly 3 miles, to a spectacular waterfall. (What had you accomplished by 10am?) Yesterdayâs was wide, but todayâs was tall. Yesterdayâs was crowded, but we were probably the only ones to see todayâs waterfall for weeks in either direction. On our way in we saw a good-sized spider monkey jumping tree to tree in the rainforest canopy. Also several macaws on the way out. And a cute tiny 3-legged frog. Harry would be excited, except no darts.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
We hit lunch at a roadside restaurant at noon, where I drank Fanta and ate a whole fish. Delicious on both counts!
Then to a serious cave system, Caverna do Maroaga. Here they supply the guides, so Erikes took a break from babysitting us. đ Our guide didnât speak English, so we used universal gestures and smiles, and that sufficed. It was the usual, roughly 1 hour hike in. The caves were dark on the inside, but I took a very Blaire Witch video of us inside by the guideâs flashlight. Looking backward at the last bit of daylight, I could see the silhouette of bats swooping. All very cool. Then we hiked around to the other side where thereâs a nice grotto shower, Gruta da JudĂŠia, we could splash around in to cool off before the return hike.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
Eric had had enough fun for the day and wanted to get back to our camp, so after a quick FaceTime between Moe, Emily, and Ada as we drove through Presidente Figuereidoâs brief cell tower coverage, we returned to camp. It wasnât even long enough to download a single song, never mind the album I was hoping for: Chris Purekaâs Driving North. (Radio has been hit or miss, and weâve spent a lot of time in the car lately!)
I sat in the river drinking beer and reading my book (Everything Matters) for the rest of the afternoon. Iâm nearly done, maybe one more sitting to go… Still loving it!
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
Tomorrow we’ll hit one more waterfall early, then drive back to Manaus to begin part 2 of our trip at the eco-resort. Itâll be hard to say goodbye to Erikes. Heâs been with us since we stepped out of the airport, and he is Brazil to us! đ
Let me just start by saying my day began playing Civilization VI. I bought it for my iPad a few weeks ago when it went temporarily on sale at 60% off. I started a tutorial game last night around 10pm and forced myself to quit at 1am.
Eric lent me his Bose noise-canceling headphones to see if that would make his snoring more tolerable. So at 1am, on a boat in the Amazon, I stopped gaming and put on white noise â of the brown noise variety for those curious. I could only hear the crescendos of his snoring where heâd wake himself up, but the headphones totally took the edge off, and by 1:30am I was out cold.
5:30am came to soon! The boat was awake with dawnâs early light, and sunrise arrived shortly thereafter. I couldnât resist a few photos, but then tried to eek out another hour of sleep. Then it was breakfast (eggs, goat cheese tapioca blintz things, watermelon, and sweet tea) while we motored one more time back to where we first boarded the boat.
After tipping the boat crew and loading our belongings in a pickup truck and trailer hitched behind, we set off for 6 hours of driving to President Figueiredo, Amazonasâs famous waterfalls.
photo credit: Maurice RibblePhoto credit: Maurice Ribble
But less than an hour in, our truck lost power, and the engine started knocking badly. Erikes and his father-in-law, who we didnât realize was in the back of the truck, looked under the hood but didnât see anything obvious.
Photo credit: Maurice Ribble
We figured it had something to do with the quality of the gas that his father-in-law had just siphoned (by mouth) out of another vehicle. Seemed to me like maybe it had water or something in it? Erikes tried to continue driving it for another 20 minutes. The road was just one big hill after another, and weâd go 5 mph up the hill in lowest gear, then as fast as possible down the other side, trying to build momentum into the next hill. With the painful knocking and backfiring sounds, it was like riding the start of a roller coaster. Click, click, click, click, …… wheeeee!
This would have turned the remaining 5 hours into the next 2 days if we kept at this pace. Another deep consultation under the hood, joined by another boat crew person who apparently had been riding in the trailer the whole time. It was like clowns coming out of a Volkswagen. How many people were riding back there in the luggage trailer?! Among other things, they inspected and cleaned wires leading to the spark plugs, and that seemed to resolve the issue long enough to burn off the rest of the shitty gas and pick back up the pace.
Iâve said it before, but Erikesâ driving, bless his heart, is the only danger weâve encountered in the Amazon. Other than the vegetation. Every plant here wants you to die and rot away right above its root system. The animals on the other hand are total sweethearts. And the humans are kind, generous, quick to smile, and can I just say unrealistically attractive? Young, old, women, men, in the city or in the woods: Brazil, you are HOT! But damnit, Erikes, itâs okay if we get to the waterfall 30 minutes later… I hope the 130kph in an 80 zone isnât just to entertain the Americans! đŹ
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
Just FYI, weâre at about 2° south of the equator.
We did survive the trip to the first waterfall/grottos, after swapping the truck and trailer for the little car halfway, and having Brazilian BBQ for lunch. (Itâs a lost branding opportunity if you ask me, but they just call it BBQ here.) The caves adjacent to the waterfall were formed when this part of the Amazon was under the ocean. Jurassic Park meets Waterworld is all I can conjure in my head. Which is good because Jurassic Park theme song is already stuck playing on repeat in there. Question: Does Waterworld have a theme song? And, is Waterworld one or two words? Answer: Who cares? [Future Benj: Nobody does, Benj of Yore. Nobody does. But it’s one word, and does have a theme song.]
Tomorrow requires another 5:30am wake up to squeeze in our last day of Amazon Mystery Touring at Presidente Figueiredo. So I better get done blogging and get started gaming!
The tapioca blintz things this morning had something like feta cheese in them. My name is Benj Lipchak and I approve this message.
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
Today we hit the river and steamed as fast as we could (or dieseled?) back to the nearest village on the river so we could watch the Brazil vs. Belgium World Cup match. First Moe gifted the soccer ball we brought along to the friendly tykes I juggled with yesterday. I took a few photos of the beautiful fog, and then back to the hammock! I completed a preposterous number of black belt KenKen.
We arrived in âtownâ (one âroadâ with about a dozen houses, only accessible by boat) during halftime. Brazil was already down 2-0. We walked up to a residence where a bunch of people were watching, and they set out some extra chairs for us, and even moved the television outside so weâd all have a good view. We drank a lot of beer, which helped us cheer in one solitary goooooooooooooooal. Every time I put my beer glass down between sips, one of our crew topped it off. We killed a lot of liter-sized bottles of beer in just 45 minutes! Brazil had control of the ball 95% during this 2nd half. If only we had shown up before the damage was already done! Things would have gone differently.
photo credit: Maurice Ribblephoto credit: Maurice Ribble
photo credit: Maurice Ribble
We had a decent signal heading into and out of town. I texted Jessica that Iâm safe and sound. She texted right back that she pulled the car over and wanted to FaceTime. It was only 2 bars of 3G, but it worked pretty great! I gave the fam a quick virtual tour of the boat and a view of the river. What a great moment. I canât wait to see them for real in another 9 days! I havenât seen those kiddos in about 3 weeks!
We parked the boat for tonight about an hour or two back away from civilization. We all jumped in the water. It was shallow and sandy, with the obligatory dolphin swimming nearby. Iâm wondering if theyâre assigned monitoring duty by the dolphin high council. These dolphins are everywhere we go, in plentiful numbers. After splashing around a bit, I went to grab my biodegradable body wash and shampoo, purchased originally for Maurice’s and my Allagash river canoe trip, and got myself really clean for the first time on this trip. Eric borrowed my suds, too. (Maurice abstained, since it hasnât been 6 months yet since his last washing.)
Eric was kind enough to propose I try his Bose noise cancelling headphones tonight so I can get a full nightâs sleep. I already tried them out. His snoring stands no chance against my white noise pumping through these cans. Thanks, Eric! Zzzzzz
Having escorted pebbles from the Irish Sea to the North Sea on the Wainwright Walk, now Benj is eyeing the Appalachian Trail…